continuous duty solenoid battery isolator

#Continuous duty solenoid battery isolator install
#Continuous duty solenoid battery isolator manual
#Continuous duty solenoid battery isolator series

One for all stock engine systems to either battery, all house loads to either battery, and Solar or grid powered charging sources to either battery.

#Continuous duty solenoid battery isolator manual

I use a Blueseas 6007m manual switch, and 2awg wire directly from alternator (+) stud, for isolation.Īctually, I use three of these manual switches. Surepower 1314 single sense voltage sensing solenoid would be much more effective and MUCH more simple to wire. 4awg cable or fatter Wire from Alternator (+) or starting battery(+) to solenoid and solenoid to breaker/fuse to Aux battery(+). It is actually quite simple to find and simple to hook up. Http:/ / Circuit-ATC-Piggy-Standard-Holder/ dp/ B009K6U582 I like the blower motor circuit for a trigger circuit as it is not live with engine cranking at least on my Dodge, not sure about Chevy.įinding a circuit to tap to trigger the solenoid is usually what freaks out Newbs. Much easier and more effective to wire up a quality continuous duty solenoid triggered/activated when the engine is running. I'm surprised they still sell these, can sell these. This particular unit is to be wired so that it is manipulating the alternator into making a higher voltage, to account for the voltage drop through the diode in this device., vastly complicating the wiring. The Diodes reduce voltage, which reduces charge current, and this model has those large finned heatsinks, because that Diode wastes alternator energy as heat and when the battery is well depleted, that thing can get hot enough to burn your fingers. I suspect none of us would recommend a simple solenoid approach.Why did you choose this product over a simple continuous duty solenoid or the other more effective battery recharging/isolation methods devices? There are arguments for either ACR or B2B approaches, both with their own trade-offs. I wired my ACR directly to the van battery and and external fuse, so the CCPs remain unused. A B2B can also limit charging current, so the CCP fuse wouldn't be a problem. Some folks here go for a more expensive battery-to-battery converter (B2B unit) approach to avoid this. Mixing two battery technologies is frowned upon because you may not be able to adequately or properly charge the house battery, and thus shorten battery life. Like what type of house battery you'll be using. You would probably want an external properly sized fuse or breaker in line with your solenoid/relay.Īs you proceed, there are a few other considerations as well. If the house is fairly discharged, you may end up popping the CCP internal fuse, which is under the seat and a pain to replace. One thing I'd caution about, no matter which approach you use, is using a single CCP point as the van side battery connection (as is the case if you only have a single van battery). Which, IMO, would be a silly wheel reinvention. The solenoid approach can't handle any of that, unless you use it as the core of a homemade ACR. ACRs also protect against transients affecting the house system, like when the starter is actually engaged. They also provide undervoltage and overvoltage protection, so the ACR won't connect the banks if one bank is severely discharged (less than about 9.5V) or there's some sort of high voltage fault (over about 16 V). ACRs don't require ignition sense lines, they only engage if one of the batteries is above 13 volts. In addition to intelligently knowing when it's OK to connect the two battery banks, the installation is far simpler. Some folks use the Blue Sea ACR: _ExplainedĬlick to expand.I'm going to echo what DaveInSeattle says.ĪCRs are specifically designed for this scenario. This company can also provide phone support for their kits. Selecting the correct kit depends on knowing the type and capacity of your house bank and starter batteries.

#Continuous duty solenoid battery isolator series

This kit uses the Victron series ACR (Automatic charging relay).

#Continuous duty solenoid battery isolator install

Here are links to kits that you can install yourself with a wiring diagram and instructions. If electrical work is to unfamiliar to you, most cities have local upfitters, companies that do work on work vehicles, who can install the correct device for you. For example, if your house bank is depleted and you turn the ignition on, it will start to drain your starter battery, Your voltage will drop, and you might be unable to start the vehicle. I’m curious how you decided that a simple solenoid connected to the ignition signal was the best approach for charging the house bank? I can think of a number of scenarios where this will cause problems.